20. August – 07. September 2025
Here we go again. On August 19th, SALU is lifted back into the water, and one day later we are on our way to Rome. We want to take our time and have planned six weeks for the approximately 550 nm. This will give us plenty of opportunity to explore the French and Italian coasts.
On the day of our departure, it rains in the morning. This makes saying goodbye to Port Napoleon easier. We’ve grown fond of the harbor. It’s not pretty, but it’s where we bought SALU and where she spent her first year. Now, off to new shores!
Ile de Frioul
Our first stop is Frioul, the archipelago off Marseille. Once we’ve maneuvered through the numerous freighters and tankers anchored in the Bay of Fos, we motor into the Bay of Marseille. The rain has stopped, and the wind is only moderate.
This is our third time in Frioul. So, we know the harbor and know we need a very long mooring line to dock there. We’re prepared and put out a 15m line. Then our first swim in the Mediterranean in a small bay next to the harbor.
In the evening, the wind picks up and shifts to the northwest. But we’re sheltered behind the high wall that connects the two islands, creating a large harbor.
Port Miou and Port Cassis
The next morning, we set off early. The wind forecast for today is 10-15 knots northwest. However, we’re expecting a 1m swell from the side. Salu rolls and pitches until we reach the cape south of Marseille and surround the Isle Maire. Then the waves push us from behind, and we rush east with the genoa set.
Before entering the harbor of Cassis, we stop for a swim in Port Miou, a deeply indented calanque. Using a mooring buoy and a shore line, we can moor here for two hours free of charge and enjoy the clear water.
We have fond memories of the port of Cassis from our last visit. The marineros are helpful and steer SALU into its berth. Meanwhile, the wind is blowing strongly from the northwest, and gusts of up to 35 knots are forecast for the night. So we decide to stay in Cassis for two nights. The town is typically southern French and a popular daytime destination for people in Marseille. Good restaurants line the harbor pier, and the next morning, after a coffee and a croissant, we stroll through the weekly market. Fresh vegetables and fruit at fair prices. It’s a pleasant place to spend time.
Iles des Embiez
The Ile de Embiez island was purchased in the 1960s by Paul Ricard, who became wealthy as an entrepreneur with Ricard Pastis. He carefully developed the island to protect its natural beauty and the ocean around it. A modern marina and several family hotels do not detract from the island’s beauty. Salt marshes on one side and rugged cliffs on the other create a beautiful contrast. We explore the island on foot, which can easily be done in about an hour. Along the way, beautiful swimming spots with crystal-clear water. In the evening, a really good band from Havana plays in the central square, and we enjoy a Mojito.
Ile de Porquerolles
We already know Porquerolles from our spring cruise and are happy to return there. This time, however, not in the harbor, but at anchor in the silver beach. During the day, there is a lively traffic of small motorboats with day visitors. In the evening, it becomes quieter. Only a few boats anchor overnight. We don’t want to miss a visit to the tranquil village of Porquerolles. Nor the good island wine.
Saint Tropez, Baie de Canebiers
Today we have about 35 nm ahead of us, and we set off early in the morning. The wind is only light and blowing right in our faces. So it’s time to fire up the engine! We actually wanted to go to the port of Saint Maxime, but construction is underway there, and Navily recommends avoiding the harbor at the moment. So we head back to the famous Baie de Canebiers and anchor there. In a few minutes, we reach the back of Saint Tropez by dinghy and walk into town. We’re always amazed at the beautiful corners of Saint Tropez when you avoid the shopping streets and the harbor promenade lined with superyachts. The town has truly managed to retain its charm.
Cannes, Île Sainte Marguerite
We already know this island from our spring cruise. We moor at the free buoy near the ferry terminal. There are only two boats there besides us. When the ferries stop operating in the evening, the swell subsides and the night is quiet. The only disturbance is the large open-air disco in Cannes, which is directly opposite the island, 2 nm away. The pounding beat can be heard until 4:00 a.m. Not too disturbing, but ever-present.
Nice, Port Lympia
The weather is forecast is changeable with thunderstorms for the next two days. We therefore decide to stay in Nice for two nights. We find a very nice spot in the city port, Lympia. It’s right in the middle of the city, yet a few meters away from the traffic. We climb the castle hill and enjoy the magnificent view. Nice’s eventful history is evident. Owned by Savoy for several hundred years, it only came to France at the end of the 19th century. Many of the buildings therefore look rather Italian. Next day we took a bus to Eze, an uphill town near by. We thought it dark and very touristy, but enjoyed the bus ride along the coast. We eat oysters, mussels, and shrimp at our favorite seafood restaurant, the Cafe de Turin, before continuing on towards Italy.
We pass Monaco. We’re not drawn to the city, dominated by high-rise buildings, which, viewed from the sea, look very built-up. Only the Institute of the Sea stands out positively.
Menton
The last French town before the Italian border. You can already recognize Italy by the colorful houses that stretch from the harbor up the hill. Climbing stairs is a must. The old town seems quiet and deserted. Here, people live in centuries-old buildings nestled within one another. Things are lively around the harbor and in the shopping area. Of course, we sample the ice-cold juice of the famous Menton lemons.
Sanremo
We’ve reached Italy. About 150 nm are behind us, and we cross the border between Menton and Ventimiglia on SALU. The French flag is exchanged for the Italian flag, and we’re already over there. The Italian Riviera Potente, which begins here, doesn’t look much different from the French side. Only the many greenhouses catch our eye. Apparently a fertile stretch of land.
Sanremo is invitingly Italian. We pay €110 for the harbor here, compared to €40 in Nice. The difference is, that SALU can play with the big ships next to her. Italian prices, after all. Dinner in a typically lively Italian square is all the more rewarding. After the first Aperol Spritz in Italy, we head to „Restaurant Mama“. A recommendation from the bartender that’s worth it.
Imperia
The weather forecast actually predicts calm summer weather. But as we leave Sanremo toward Imperia, the wind picks up to 25 knots and the waves grow from 1 to 2 meters high. We’re happy when we arrive in Imperia and get a quiet berth in the old harbor of Porto Maurizio. Located right next to the old town, with the most beautiful habour office we ever seen. Behind the harbor wall, just 10 meters away, lies the city beach, and it’s time for a day of swimming, complete with sun loungers and parasols. After a long evening stroll through the beautiful old town, we head to a simple restaurant on the pier. We’ve rarely eaten as well as we did there. Mussels in spicy tomato sauce, fillet steak with pepper and Gorgonzola sauce, and a semifredo to finish. Dolce vita!
Andora
The small seaside resort, just 8 nm from Imperia, is our next stop. The municipal harbor is convenient and well-protected. The sky is cloudy, and rain showers are forecast for the day and evening. So, time for laundry, shopping, and blogging.
Loano
We had never heard of Loano before. Our next stop turned out to be more beautiful than we first thought. A historic old town with house facades that look three-dimensional, but are only painted on. This quickly transforms simple townhouses into magnificent Italian palazzi. Here, as everywhere along the Ligurian coast, bagnos line up one after the other. Italians like their deckchairs in rows. Free stretches of beach are in short supply.
Varazze
Our last stop before Genoa is the seaside resort of Varazze. The harbor is new and beautifully designed in a semicircle. The crossing from Loano was very bumpy, so we were glad when SALU was quietly moored at the dock. After having a coffee and a cornetto in the habour bar next morning, we set sails towards Genua.
Genoa
The weather this day was completely different. A glassy sea and no wind. We chug leisurely to Genoa and enter the large harbor. Here, ferries, shipyards, container ships, and cruise ships mingle. We’re lucky enough to snag a spot at the Porto Antico, right in the heart of the old town. Arriving in Genua we sailed about the half of our trip to Rome. 240 nm along southern France and Liguria Ponente. We explore Genoa in the afternoon and are amazed by the stately homes and magnificent squares that reflect the city’s former wealth.
Rapallo, Portofino
It’s almost the weekend when we arrive in the Bay of Rapallo. Once a major seaside resort in the 19th century, it is now a lovely little town with a typical shopping street, small shops in the old town, and numerous restaurants along the beach promenade. We are moored at a buoy in the harbor, dangerously close to the breakwater. Thanks to a stern line to a second buoy, we are secured. The buoy belongs to a family-run beach resort and costs us €60 instead of the €220 charged at the neighboring harbor. Naturally, we take the time to drive to Portofino. It’s less than 40 minutes by bus from Rapallo. Portofino is small, beautiful, and crowded. There are the usual luxury shops and restaurants with prices twice as high as elsewhere. The town itself is picturesque, and after half an hour we’ve seen everything and take the bus back to Rapallo. Our private Aperol Spritz Challenge: €7.50 in a wine bar that’s been around since the early 19th century.
Sestri Levante
On to the next stop, just a few miles from Rapallo. Sestri Levante is the gateway to Cinque Terre and particularly beautiful because it’s surrounded by the sea on two sides. We head to a private buoy field on the east side and moor there for €50. It couldn’t be better. Of the many small boats that anchor in the bay during the day, none are left by the evening. They all return to their harbors. So we have the bay almost to ourselves and enjoy a sundowner on the foredeck.
Cinque Terre, Portovenere
A must-see in Liguria are the five small villages that cling to the steep cliffs like eagle’s nests: Cinque Terre. We decide to anchor off the third village, Manarola, and take a long dip in the sea. Seen from the water, the five villages are probably even more impressive than from the land. Picturesque, for sure.
It’s only a few miles to Portovenere, and we moor in the small town harbor. We’re moored right outside the town with five to seven other boats. At sunset, we climb a few steps to the church and then enjoy a first-class Ligurian dinner in an old osteria in the town. In the evening, we marvel at the never-ending stream of small and large boats returning from their day trip to the Bay of La Spezia. It’s like being on a highway.
We leave Portovenere the next morning, and with it Liguria. From La Spezia, we’re now in Tuscany. Our next destination: Viareggio