September 2, 2026 –
Rome
We’re off again! After two hot summer months, we are setting sail once more. Our destination for this autumn voyage is Sicily, where SALU will be put into winter storage. We plan to take the entire month of September to sail there from Rome. We leave Nautilus Marina—which served as a great home port for SALU over the past year—with a sense of gratitude. Course set for the south!
Nettuno
We sail south along the largely unremarkable coast below Rome, enjoying a favorable beam reach. Our first stop is Nettuno, a small Italian town right next to Anzio. After a stroll through the lovely medieval quarter, we enjoy a delicious fish dinner at a small restaurant. But first, it’s time to shop. Fortunately, the local supermarket delivers directly to the marina, so we load up our trolley with water and provisions for the coming days.
Pontine Islands
Palmarola
After the customary coffee and cornetto, we set off in the morning toward the Pontine Islands. Our first destination is the uninhabited island of Palmarola, located right next to the main island, Ponza. We plan to anchor here overnight. The sea is calm and the air still as we depart; apart from us, only a few vessels are visible on the horizon. The post-season in Italy has begun.
It is a restless night. We anchored too close to the island’s headland and are exposed to the swell. The next morning, we sail the two nautical miles to the other side of the island to stop for a swim in a sheltered bay. This is home to the island’s only inhabited structure—a restaurant frequented by many day-tripper boats during the day.
For the following night, we choose an anchorage in the southeastern part of the island. Here, the swell has subsided, and we enjoy a magnificent night under the stars.
Ponza
The next day, we sail to the archipelago’s main island. It is just a short hop, and we find a lovely anchorage right next to the harbor basin, sharing the space with only a few other boats. In the evening, we watch a real race as boats large and small head back into the harbor—rush hour in the Mediterranean. Everyone is trying to snag one of the few remaining spots in the harbor basin. We aren’t sure why; after all, we are anchored safely and stress-free in the neighboring bay. We take the dinghy into the town of Ponza for the evening. You can tell it is a destination for wealthy Romans; the shops are chic and the restaurants are packed. We manage to find a nice pizzeria, though, and enjoy the evening.
Ventotene
From Ponza, we head to Ventotene, the last of the Pontine Islands before the Bay of Naples. The Romans carved a harbor basin out of the rock here—one that is still in use today. We explore the narrow harbor by dinghy and tie up at the quay—under the watchful eye of Simone, who seems to own everything here: the harbor quay, the adjacent restaurant, and the boat rental business. Naturally, we stop at Simone’s restaurant for lunch and enjoy some delicious spaghetti alle vongole.
Ischia
The next day, we continue toward the Gulf of Naples, with the island of Ischia on our itinerary. Instead of heading for the main harbor, we decide to anchor in a small bay off the town of Sant’Angelo. It turns out to be the right decision! The town is quintessentially Italian and feels like a place where time has stood still. We have dinner at a restaurant with a seaside terrace—simply wonderful!
Procida
On the way to Procida, the next island, we explore the anchorages off Ischia’s old castle, which towers over an islet just off the main town. At one time, around 2,000 people lived here together in a small town complete with a castle and a church.
Unlike Ischia, Procida is flat and far less touristy. We moor in the port of Procida and, in the evening, walk to the other side of the island to a nice seafood restaurant founded by Maria, Procida’s first professional female fisher.
Our next overnight anchorage is the bay beneath the castle hill of Ischia, which we had already explored the day before.
Sorrento, Cassano
The next morning, we are woken before sunrise by the yacht anchored right next to us. Clearly, the skippers aren’t very experienced; the distance between us is too small, and they are also having trouble weighing anchor. We watch the situation for a while and then weigh our own anchor just after sunrise. Our destination is Cassano, a small harbor right next to Sorrento.
Rain and storms are forecast for the next two days. We therefore decide to stay in the harbor and take a trip to Pompeii on the second day. It takes just 30 minutes by train. The archaeological site is well worth seeing; it gives you a real impression of life 2,000 years ago.
Minori, Amalfi Coast
We continue along the Amalfi Coast to our next destination for the day, a mooring buoy anchored off the small town of Minori. The journey there is accompanied by heavy swell caused by the numerous small and large motorboats out and about on this Saturday. At Minori, we moor at a buoy and once again have to contend with the swell generated by the many ferries and excursion boats. The town is lovely and unspoiled. The local patisserie is listed online as a highlight, and indeed, they create little works of art out of icing there.
We take the next day at a leisurely pace. Around noon, we plan to take the bus to Amalfi, which is just 3 km away. We are already familiar with the Amalfi Coast from a road trip we took there five years ago. However, seeing towns like Positano or Amalfi from the water is a completely different experience.