Eastward: Marseille to Nice
18. May – 02. June 2025
Port Napoleon – Marseille (Vieux Port)
We set sail in May from Port Napoleon, where SALU spent the winter resting on the hard. We had purchased SALU there the year before and equipped it for our needs. Port Napoleon is a large dry storage facility with more than 1.000 berths. The habour offers an ideal starting point for exploring the sea off the coast of southern France.
We welcome our first guest, Michelle, on board. She ist a good friend and a sailing instructor for the RYA. With her huge experience she will show us a lot of practical tricks on our first trip.
So we set course to Marseille.
To do this, we have to cross the Golfe de Fos, the commercial port of Mariseille. A sea area with heavy cargo traffic, large ships, and plenty of navigation marks. Once we’re out of the hustle and bustle, things become more relaxed and we enjoy the trip through the Bay of Marseille, past the Frioul Islands and into the harbor basin of the Vieux Port de Marseille.
The harbour is located in the heart of the city. Shops, bars, and restaurants are practically in front of the pier. There are several mooring options in the harbour. We chose the harbour of the local yacht club (CNM).
Marseille – La Ciotat
On our way along the coast, we leave the famous Calanques to the left and try to escape the Mistral. This northerly wind blows down the Rhône Valley, especially in spring and autumn, and can be quite strong. Gusts of 35 knots and more are not uncommon. It’s important to escape its influence as quickly as possible. We speed toward Bandol with a strong northerly wind following us. The swell is getting stronger, causing SALU to roll unpleasantly. Since there’s no improvement in the weather in sight this afternoon, we decide not to sail to Bandol, but instead seek shelter in the harbor of La Ciotat.
In La Ciotat, it keeps us in the harbour for three days. No one dares to venture out to sea in this wind.
In our opinion, La Ciotat is underrated. It is considered an industrial city because it was once home to the shipyards of Marseille. Today, superyachts are built there. The town itself has a beautiful harbour and is a fine example of a small southern French town, with pleasant shops and good restaurants along the harbour front.
Ciotat – Saint Mandrier
We continue on to escape the next Mistral, which is forecast for just a few days. The only truly safe place is in Toulon, the large port city and naval base. Here, far enough east of the Rhône Delta, the Mistral can no longer affect us. We head for the harbour of Saint Mandrier, just outside Toulon. It’s still a small fishing village with plenty of charm. Toulon, with its high-rise buildings, can be seen at the end of the large bay. Apart from the busy boat traffic, this isn’t a problem.
From the Bay of Toulon, we’re no longer in the Mistral’s range. This means much less wind. Usually just a thermal breeze that starts around 11 a.m. and blows at a moderate 3-4 Bft until the evening. But there are also days with no wind at all, when SALU’s engine helps us reach our daily destination.
Saint Mandrier – Ile de Porquerolles
A must-see on the French coast of Provence are the Iles d’Hyeres, especially the Ile de Porquerolles. It’s a different world. When the tourist ferries have returned the daytrippers to the mainland around 7 p.m., the small town of Porquerolle belongs to its few residents and sailors. In the harbour, we moor at a buoy, which is much more relaxing than at the visitor’s pier. In the evening, eating at one of the many restaurants on the edge of the small village square and drinking the island’s rosé wine… pure France!
Porquerolles – Cavalaire-sur-Mer
But we have to move on, and we also have to fill up on diesel and replenish our food supplies. So we’re off to Cavalaire-sur-Mer, a modern town entirely geared towards tourism. The harbour may be centrally located, but the town doesn’t have much to offer.
Cavalaire-sur-Mer – Saint Tropez (Baie des Canebiers)
From Cavalaire-sur-Mer, we’re on the stretch of coast now known as the Côte d’Azur. Another must-see here is, of course, Saint Tropez. Instead of going to one of the large harborus in the bay, we anchor in the Baie des Canebiers, a sheltered bay south of Saint Tropez. From here, we follow a coastal path into town. A lovely walk. Saint Tropez pleasantly surprised us. Sure, there are the superyachts and the posing at the harbour. But in the small, dreamy alleys and squares of the old town, you’ll find lovely shops and inviting restaurants. Definitely worth a visit.
Saint Tropez – Frejus
The wind carries us into the Bay of Frejus. The harbour there is relatively modern. The village of Frejus lies inland and can be reached by bus. However, we decide to walk to Saint Raphaël, the neighboring town. Once a sophisticated seaside resort, it is now a small town with a somewhat morbid atmosphere.
Frejus – Mandelieu-la-Napoule (Port de la Rague)
It’s time for our friend Michelle to say goodbye. She leaves us in the small harbor of La Rogue near Mandelieu-la-Napoule and takes the train to Nice Airport. It was lovely to be with her. She really enjoyed the French way of life and promised to come back. Always welcome!
Mandelieu-la-Napoule – Ile de Sainte Marguerite
Off the coast of Cannes lie the two islands of Sainte Marguerite and Saint Honore. In front of Sainte Marguerite, we moor at a buoy below the old fort. They’re free. You just have to register online and you can stay for up to 7 days. Sainte Marguerite is a tranquil island just across the street from bustling Cannes. It’s quick to explore on foot. Once the day trippers have returned to the mainland on the last ferry at 6 p.m., you have the island to yourself. The two restaurants and two kiosks close with the last ferry. The neighboring island, Saint Honore, separated from Sainte Marguerite by a small channel, is famous for its monastery. Monks have lived on the island for centuries. In the Middle Ages, it was a spiritual center of France, producing 100 saints and 20 bishops.
The narrow channel between the islands is a popular anchorage for day trippers from Cannes. Crowded and sometimes very shallow. We found it better to anchor in front of Fort Royal or go to the buoy.
Ile de Sainte Marguerite – Antibes (Anse de la Salis)It’s now just a stone’s throw to Antibes. Unfortunately, we can’t find any space in the harbor. The Classic Sailors‘ Regatta takes up a large part of the old harbor, and they have to move many boats to make room. Instead, we anchor west of the city in the Anse de la Salis bay. We take the dinghy ashore, and then it’s only a short walk to the beautiful old town of Antibes. Simply worth seeing and very French…
Antibes – Nice (Marina Baie des Anges)
We moor for a while in the Marina Baie des Anges. Important appointments force us to make a stop and quickly fly home. The modern marina was built in front of the typical high-rise buildings. It’s strange at first, but we eventually get used to the view, which is reminiscent of stranded cruise ships. The harbor has everything you need. The beach on both sides is made of pebbles, just like in Nice. At least that saves you from getting sand in your clothes and shoes. The train, which stops just behind the harbor, takes you to downtown Nice in 20 minutes. If you want to continue on to Monaco or Menton, the train also takes you there. Going in the other direction, you can reach Antibes in 10 minutes, and then Cannes or Grasse.
