17.06. – 29.06.2026
Ile Lavezzi
On the way to Bonifacio we want to stop for a swim at the Lavezzi Island. However, there is a lot going on in the picturesque bay. Fast excursion boats often cross our anchorage. The chain also gets caught in a rock and we have trouble getting it loose again. So anchor up and under engine to Bonifacio on Corsica.
Bonifacio, Corsica
What a beautiful place. High up on the cliff, the houses practically cling to the edge. The harbor entrance is spectacular. A 1 nm long fjord with high cliffs on both sides. The harbor is typically French. The pier is lined with bars and restaurants and it is much more touristy here than in Sardinia. In the evening we hike up the steep mountain to the center of the town and stroll through the streets of the old town with its high houses and steep stairs. In a typical bar we taste the local beer for the first time, which is made from chestnuts instead of barley. Delicious!
Our berth is opposite the local disco, which doesn’t bother us much and turns off its music at 2 a.m.
Porto Vecchio
We booked a place in the port of Porto Vecchio for the next day. After an anchor stop in the beautiful bay of Golfo Rodinara, we reach Porto Vecchio. The port is currently being fundamentally renovated and expanded. That’s why the access is a bit complicated because the buoys aren’t very easy to see. The old harbor is small and narrow. We take the free shuttle bus up the mountain to the old town, which is well worth seeing. It is touristy and resembles a huge restaurant. We find a nice restaurant in a side street, drink Corsican red wine and eat grilled lamb and duck. Delicious!
Golfe de Rondinara
After breakfast in the harbor cafe, we head south again. The wind has almost completely died down. We decide to go to Golfe de Rondinara again and anchor there overnight. The long beach stretches in a crescent shape around the bay and the cicadas create an atmospheric atmosphere.
Golfo Rodinara, South Side
On the other side of the headland in front of Golfo Rodinara lies a beautiful sandy beach and a perfect anchorage. We had actually planned to anchor in the bay of San Manza today. However, the water there is dirty, and the small settlement of Gurgazu looks run-down. A wedding is taking place at the beach restaurant, and the other restaurants don’t accept credit cards. So, we weigh anchor and head back to Golfo Rodinara.
Isola Budelli, Maddalena Archipelago, Sardinia
The next morning, we weigh anchor and head back to Sardinia. Our destination is the small, privately owned island of Budelli in the northern part of the archipelago. In the large bay, we find a mooring buoy that we can use for the night. We take the dinghy for a scouting trip around the bay, which is frequented by many sailboats and excursion boats. Beyond the swimming area, it looks like a car park. Small motorboats and dinghies, which have come for the day, are anchored close together. In the evening, once the tourists have left and the excursion boats have disappeared, it’s wonderful in front of Budelli.
Cannigione, Sardinia
The deep bay near the town of Cannigione is our next destination. After a stop in Golfo Saline with its lovely beach, we moor in Cannigione in the evening at the pier we already know. The small Italian town is much livelier than on our last visit. There’s a night market, and in the evening, a performance of Sardinian folk dances takes place in the square in front of the church. They’re celebrating the festival of the town’s patron saint. The atmosphere is lively and distinctly Italian.
Golfo Prevero
The fresh wind the next morning promises a beautiful sail towards Golfo Prevero. The large bay is always beautiful, and we anchor in 5 meters of sand. During the day, it’s filled with numerous large motorboats, but in the evening, it’s empty except for 10 boats that spend the night sheltered there. The water has now reached 23 degrees Celsius, so we can go for a swim in the night. We enjoy the sunset and the peace and quiet.
Spiaggia Portisco
During a recent visit to the small harbor of Portisco, we discovered a truly beautiful bay right next to the harbor jetty while out for a walk. We decided to anchor there overnight and found ourselves the only boat in the bay. In the morning, we were greeted by two dolphins that seemed to be looking around nearby. The day brought fresh winds, so we decided to simply sail into the large Golfo di Cugnana bay ahead of us and enjoy the day.
Golfo di Marinella
We planned to spend the night in the Bay of Marinella, which is deeply indented and therefore well-protected. There were numerous large mooring buoys laid out, and we headed for one. After tying up, we asked about the price and were astonished to hear the owner asking for €163 for a single night. In the nearby Marana harbor, a night cost just €60, including water and electricity. So, we politely declined, cast off, and anchored less than 100 meters away in crystal-clear water—for free. We spent the €163 we saved on an excellent dinner at Porto Marana. It was also here that we enjoyed the best Aperol Spritz of the entire trip.
Cala dei Sardi
After stopping to anchor and swim in the familiar Bay of Ira, we headed to the small marina at Cala dei Sardi for our final overnight stay in Sardinia. Just as when we arrived a month earlier, it was Saturday—a busy time for the many charter boats based there. There was a lively coming and going of departing and arriving charter guests, all within a very relaxed atmosphere.
Crossing to Rome, Nautilus Marina
On Sunday morning, we set off on the 130-nautical-mile journey back to Rome. The sky was clear, the sea calm, and the wind had died down completely. So, we fired up the engine and motored back to the mainland. The watch schedule allows each of us a few hours of restful sleep, and we reach the mouth of the Tiber after exactly 24 hours of motoring. We moor SALU and celebrate our safe return with a long, refreshing shower.
In total, we were underway for exactly one month—from May 29th to June 29th—covering around 500 nautical miles. We thoroughly enjoyed Sardinia and Corsica, and we will certainly look back fondly on these two beautiful islands. Since it was still the pre-season, neither island was overcrowded; we always managed to find a spot in the marina or a table at a restaurant. We are left with wonderful memories.
Jeremy is leaving us in two days, heading for London. Sally Ann is flying to Palma, and Uwe to Zurich. SALU will remain in Rome for the next two months, awaiting our return.
We would like to take this opportunity to sincerely thank Jeremy, who accompanied us for the past two weeks and created the top-notch videos of our trip to Sardinia and Corsica. A professional cameraman…
Jeremy and his camera are welcome aboard SALU anytime!
In September, we plan to weigh anchor again and set course for our next destination: a journey along the Italian mainland coast—past Naples, the Amalfi Coast, and Salerno—all the way to Sicily. SALU’s next winter berth is planned for the Catania area in Sicily.