May 29 – June 29, 2026
Here we go again! It’s May 26, 2026, and SALU has been safely moored in the Nautilus Marina on the Tiber River near Rome for the past eight months. Now we’re heading to Sardinia and Corsica for the next few weeks until the end of June, and then back to Rome.
Nautilus Marina, Rome
We spend the first two days checking all the systems and cleaning the boat. After the long winter months, the deck is dirty and needs a good scrub. All the checks are successful. The engine starts right up, and all the electronics on board are working perfectly. We’re very happy with SALU.
We also use the rental car we have for the first few days to stock up on food and drinking water. The little Fiat 500 is packed to the brim after our trip to the supermarket. On SALU, the groceries quickly disappear into the many cupboards and storage compartments.
… On the evening of May 27th, Michelle rejoined us. She would be accompanying us for the next two weeks and making the crossing from the Italian mainland to the northeast coast of Sardinia with us. 130 nautical miles means a 24-hour journey, so it was a short sail.
The next day, we did a test sail off the coast of Fiumiccino. Everything went perfectly. So, nothing stood in the way of our sailing weeks.
Rome – Sardinia, Marina Cala dei Sardi
After the obligatory morning coffee on board, we cast off at 9:00 am. The weather was overcast, and there was virtually no wind forecast for the crossing. We would start under motor. The watch schedule called for 4-hour watches during the day and 3-hour watches at night. Easy enough for a crew of three.
After exactly 24 + 1 hours, we reached Sardinia. The crossing with only light winds under motor was calm and easy. The full moon is frequently hidden behind clouds, but we have enough light to see the navigation lights of the ferries and cargo ships crossing our path.
Even before sunset, a group of dolphins accompanies us for a while. They clearly enjoy swimming to the left and right of the boat’s bow. They repeatedly turn sideways to keep an eye on us.
Before entering the small marina of Cala dei Sardi, we anchor just next to the port of Porto Rotondo. Only two other boats are anchored in the large bay of Spiaggia Ira. We enjoy our first swim in the Mediterranean Sea off the coast of Sardinia.
Cala dei Sardi
When we arrive in the small private harbor of Cala dei Sardi in the afternoon, it’s quite busy. It’s Saturday, and the guests are picking up their boats. The next morning, we took our new dinghy to the nearby Portisco harbor. A quick stop at the supermarket and breakfast at the local bar. The bar owner kept apologizing, even for no apparent reason. Everyone we’ve met so far has been incredibly friendly. The season has just started, and we’re already noticing how professionally everything is organized for sailors here.
Cala di Volpe – Golfo Prevero
Distances along the Costa Smeralda are short. After just 4 nautical miles, we anchored for a swim in Cala di Volpe, with its large hotel at the end of the bay. The water is crystal clear and inviting. Here, too, we shared the space with only a few other boats.
For the night, we decided to head to Golfo Prevero. It, too, is just a few nautical miles away, practically around the corner. We anchored on sand in 5 meters of azure water. A westerly wind was forecast for the night—the first signs of the Mistral. Therefore, we have to get up several times during the night to check on things. We secure the flapping anchor chain with a relief line. This allows us to sleep peacefully for the next few hours.
The next morning, the wind has died down somewhat, and we weigh anchor and head towards
Cannigione
With a wonderful westerly wind, we sail into the deep, narrow bay and find our berth for the night at a private dock. The marina attendant helps us dock with a crosswind and gives us tips for the small town. Dinner at the Osteria del Porto is excellent.
Our next destination is the Maddalena Islands. The weather app predicts Mistral winds with gusts up to 42 knots from the west for the next few days. We therefore decide to seek shelter in the harbor of La Maddalena for two nights.
Maddalena – Isola Caprera, La Maddalena
We stop for swimming and lunch in a large anchor bay on Isola Caprera. The island where the Italian national hero Guiseppe Garibaldi spent his last years is part of the Maddalena National Park. We row the dinghy ashore and take a walk along the coast. There are only a few boats in the large anchor bay of Porto Palma. In the afternoon we are suddenly surrounded by numerous dinghies from the two sailing schools that have their points on the uninhabited island.
In the late afternoon we weigh anchor and motor 5nm to the main town of the archipelago, La Maddalena. We booked a mooring in Cala Mangiavolpe, just a few minutes‘ walk from the beautiful town center. When we arrive it is rush hour. Numerous yachts are waiting to be able to dock in order to weather the strong winds that have been announced for the coming days in a safe harbor. The Marineros is extremely professional and within a few minutes we are safely on the dock.
The town of La Maddalena is bigger than we thought. The typical Italian pedestrian zone parallel to the harbor front is full of nice bars and restaurants. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. During the night the wind picked up noticeably and the next morning it blew with gusts of 40 kn from the E.
We stayed a second night in the harbor. The whitecaps were clearly visible in front of the harbor basin, and all the other boats remained where they were.
We spent our time ashore reading, shopping at the supermarket just around the corner, and visiting the local wine bar to sample Sardinian wine, donkey salami, sheep ham, and very aged goat cheese. Everything was truly delicious!
For the next day, we planned to sail to Santa Teresa Gallura and from there to Bonifacio, Corsica. The still strong westerly wind quickly made our plan impossible, and we sailed leisurely back to the large and safe bay of Cannigione.
We anchored in 5 meters of mudflats just outside the harbor and had a peaceful night.
Marina della Orso
Just around the corner lies the small Marina della Orso, tucked away in a deep fjord. We headed for it and spent the night there. The harbor was only slightly more than 30% full, which was probably due to the relatively high price. The hotel complex at the end of the bay is currently being renovated. However, we are anchored far enough away that we are not disturbed by the construction noise.
Golfo Prevero
For the next day, we plan to anchor in another bay and head once again for the beautiful, large bay of Golfe Prevero, which we have already visited. Here we find a lovely anchorage within swimming distance of the shore. The wind is still blowing strongly at 20 knots from the west, but we enjoy a walk along the beach in the dunes and spend the night there with minimal swell.
The next morning, the wind has noticeably died down, and we decide to stay another night in the bay. The water is crystal clear and light blue. We are securely anchored on 5 meters of sand. It is Sunday, and the bay fills up with motorboats and sailboats around midday. Nevertheless, it is large enough to accommodate everyone. We know that most of the boats will leave the bay again in the evening and look forward to swimming and a relaxing evening on board.
Yacht Club Porto Marana
After several pasta dinners, we’ve had our fill of noodles for a while and decide to head for a harbor. At the end of Marinalla Bay lies the small harbor of Marana, which is only open to boats with a maximum draft of 2 meters. Upon entering, we discover that we have barely 80 centimeters of water under the keel. It’s a bit deeper in the harbor basin.
The small, idyllic harbor is somewhat secluded and surrounded by a rather dated holiday complex. We’re all the more pleased to be greeted with a handshake by Pietro, the harbor owner. His parents were guest workers in Germany in the 1960s, and he studied German literature in Nuremberg. His German is flawless. The small town, with its several bars and a well-stocked supermarket, exudes a cheerful, relaxed atmosphere. We immediately feel at home.
Spaggia Ira
The next day, Amy, Sally Ann’s daughter, arrives on Salu for the first time. We sail into the bay of Ira, right next to the port of Porto Rotondo, and anchor in the azure waters. In the afternoon, Amy arrives in Olbia after flights from Palma via Rome, and we pick her up on the beach with the dinghy. We spend the evening and night on board enjoying good Sardinian wine and spaghetti Vongole.
Marina Cala dei Sardi
The Mistral wind is forecast again for the next two days, with gusts up to 25 knots. We decide to stay in the familiar port of Cala dei Sardi for the next two nights and ride out the wind. Michelle, who sailed with us for the past two weeks, unfortunately has to leave us for England. We thoroughly enjoyed our time with her, and she is welcome back on Salu anytime.
Porto Rotondo
The next few days are all about swimming. So we anchor again in Ira Bay, right next to Porto Rotondo, and enjoy the warm, clear water. In the evening, we take the dinghy to the modern harbor and stroll through the small town. The modern church, with its interior entirely decorated in wood, is impressive. The bell tower in front of the church is also made entirely of wood and has a beautiful spiral staircase leading to the bells at the top. At first glance, Porto Rotondo seems expensive. However, the restaurants and bars have reasonable prices. The next day, Amy unfortunately has to leave us again for Palma. She enjoyed her time on board SALU and will certainly come back.
La Maddalena
After another night in the bay, Jeremy joins us the next morning. We pick him up on the beach with the dinghy. He took a very early flight from London and is therefore already on board at 11:00 a.m. We decide to weigh anchor that same day and sail to La Maddalena. With a pleasant sailing breeze, we reach the small town in the evening and moor again at Ecomar.
Isola Razzoli, Cala Lunga
The next morning, we set sail for three small islands in the northern part of the Maddalena Natural Park. In the Cala Lunga bay of the uninhabited island of Razzoli, we find a beautiful anchorage with clear water and only a few other sailboats. We explore the island on foot and hike to the dilapidated old lighthouse. Renovation work has begun there, but has been interrupted for unknown reasons. The anchorage is magnificent in the evening, and the sun sets dramatically behind peculiarly shaped rocks.
Next Stop: Corsica!